This entire project was inspired by a Youtube video by Tom Stanton. I highly recommend you check it out since it explains a lot about how the project works and the theories involved. Tom made his model only as a demonstration but I wanted to create a more permanent version that could produce higher voltages, currents, and look more industrial.
Step #1
Start by cutting some 1″ T-Slot Framing to length. This requires:
- 1 – 14″
- 2 – 8″
- 1 – 5″
- 1 – 7″
- 2 – 4″
Step #2
Assemble the frame as shown using 10 right angle connectors and 4 plate connectors. Pay special attention to insert T-Nuts into the 5″ section as this will be impossible later and connections need to be made there.
Step #3
In my opinion, industrial projects like this look better with feet. I bought some cheap rubber feet with 1/4″ studs off Amazon but the threads are to long. I solve this by placing a 1/4″ washer on top on the foot. This can be seen in the images. Attach the feet to the four corners of the frame.
Step #4
Another one of those things that make the project look nicer is to cap the rough ends of the cut T-Slot Framing. I know these caps can be purchased but for cost saving, I chose to 3D print them. Adding the caps requires the ends of the T-Slot to have 1/4″ threads cut into them. After cutting the threads, attach the caps to all four corners.
Step #6
The most difficult part of this project in my opinion is making the magnetic cups that will suspend the flywheel. They need to be strong enough to hold the weight of the flywheel but not so strong as to launch it out. This part took many iterations and a lot more magnets than I anticipated originally but this design works quite well. IMPORTANT: When assembling, make sure all the magnets are facing the same direction. It should attempt to repel as you try to insert each row. After assembling the cups, install them onto the two supporting posts. I install them roughly with 1/8″ between the bottom of the magnet to the top of the aluminum.
Step #7
The flywheel consists of 8 rectangle magnets with the pole located on opposite faces. They get installed into the 3D printed part alternating poles so as they pass coils, the current direction changes. I chose to purchase an aluminum disk off Amazon for my flywheel. These two parts gets mounted onto a piece of threaded rod with some more magnets. These magnets must also face the same direction as the magnetic cups so they repel. The placement of these parts are not critical right now as they will be adjusted later. The end of the threaded rod needs to be ground to a point as this is the only point that makes contact and therefore needs to have its surface area reduced.
Step #8
The point from the previous step needs somewhere to rest. The end point platen provides this. The platen consists of a small 3D printed part with a 1/4″ magnet inserted into it. The magnet has a small point drilled into it for the point of the threaded rod to engage with.
Step #9
Now for some fun. The flywheel can be inserted into the frame and things can be adjusted until everything is level. The platen should be adjusted so the rod sits level and the magnets should be adjusted so the flywheel magnets sit just to the left of the cup magnets. this creates a pressure in the left direction.
Step #10
I wanted the output of the flywheel to be DC, not AC. I soldered a very simple circuit using a full bridge rectifier with the inputs connected to some terminal screws. The outputs of the rectifier are soldered to another screw terminal with a 50v 10uF capacitor to help smooth the output voltage. The circuit was then attached to the frame in an enclosure to clean things up.
Step #11
Just for additional neatness, I chose to add banana plugs to the frame. This makes bench top testing a bit nicer and provides an obvious connection spot that identifies positive and negative. The banana plugs can also be purchased from amazon. The banana plugs then get wired into the outputs of the rectifier circuit.
Step #12
Just like the feet, capping the top of the post cleans things up a lot. A 1/4″ thread is tapped into the top and a 3D printed cap can be installed.
Step #13
The coil is most fragile part to create. Since mine was already built up and I didn’t want to take it apart. I put together a small animation that should help you understand how it is physically assembled. The clover shaped pieces are printed out, then wound with some very fine magnet wire. Take special note about the starting end as you wind. I put a bolt through the clover and attached it to a drill to make the winding process faster. The wound clovers can then be attached to their frame and secured using nylon bolts. Solder the ends of the coils such that they form a series connection, the end of one coil is connected to the start of the next coil. Wires can be soldered to the ends of the coil assembly to make connections easier.
Step #14
The entire coil assembly should now be mounted to the frame using those two T-Nuts that were inserted earlier. This is also a good opportunity to attach a strip of plexiglass that is shaped to fit around the coil to act as a shield. I drilled the 1/4″ off center so it protects the flywheel and the coil. Placement of the coil is not important at this moment.
Step #15
After loosely installing the coil, insert the flywheel as shown.
Step #16
Adjust the coils and the magnet plate on the flywheel so they they are physically close but not touching. The closer they are, the more effective the flywheel will be.
Step #17
After adjusting the coil correctly, the wires are connected to the input of the rectifier circuit. Now is a great opportunity to test the flywheel. I barely spun the wheel and easily produced 10.3 volts DC.
Step #18
The last thing to do is add a retainer at the end. I move this thing around quite a bit and did not like how every time I moved the wheel, it would slam itself towards the back. This will also help greatly if you don’t get the balance of the wheel quite right. I balanced mine with some small washers and some hot glue.
Finished Product
Congrats! You now have a working Levitating Flywheel that can produce a surprising amount of power. Mine easily produces 60 vdc when I spin it up real fast and can produce enough current for 25ish LEDs.
